Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and tourists alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of global cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this historic city is no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has always shaped its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, evolved, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of food experimentation, fusing Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists minced the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden gems that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from 5 am at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but note that their children are unwilling to master the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.